Levi Strauss took a decade to realize, after creating the first blue jeans in the world, that the same material that was so effective for clothing a man’s bottom half also worked well to outfit his top half.
Modern man doesn’t need to wait so long before making that leap.
Denim is not only a great material for pants and jackets, but it’s also a good choice for jeans.
The jean jacket has been around for 140 years, originally worn by men working on ranches and railroads. It is a low-maintenance, functional outerwear. The durable material offers decent protection to the arms and torso. It doesn’t wrinkle and can take a beating. It’s light in weight and perfect for the slightly chilly spring and autumn days.
With a collar and a structure that typically tapers to the waist, the denim jacket also creates a more masculine silhouette and adds to the visual appeal that arises from layering in ways that faintly echo a sports jacket, but with an entirely different vibe — casual, rebellious, oppositional-to-the-suits. When worn over a basic t-shirt it adds an instant touch of interest.
Why are men often reluctant to include a simple piece of menswear that is so functional and stylish in their wardrobe, despite its obvious benefits?
Denim jackets are associated with rockers, truckers, miners and cowboys. They’re also worn by miners and cowboys. But some guys worry they’ll look like wannabes or that their jacket will look “costumey”. Or worse, a hipster trying to emulate the blue collar style. Maybe a guy just associates denim jackets with the 1980s, and wonders if the style is still popular.
The good news is, these issues don’t need to be an issue. A denim jacket will suit any man, whether he’s swinging a hammer, playing a guitar or anything else. It can be worn in a natural, sharp way and, when worn correctly, it’ll always be in style, no matter what decade.
Denim Jackets: How to choose one
The denim jacket is a timeless sartorial classic.
Fit and color are the two most important factors to consider when choosing a denim coat.
Fit. Just like with any garment, the fit of a jean jacket is paramount. The jacket should not be too baggy or too tight. The jacket should be well-fitted if it exhibits the following qualities.
- It should fit over the thickest shirt you intend to wear with it.
- When worn over a T-shirt, denim jackets can be buttoned without pulling or tightening (if you button up the jacket, leave at least top and bottom buttons unfastened).
- Fabric is hung in straight planes.
- The bottom hem should hit at the hips. Since the denim jacket has a shorter length, the hem should not extend past the beltline. It is best to keep it around the middle of the upper thigh or fly. The jacket should not be too short. If it reaches your waistline or above, then it looks too cropped and will resemble a more feminine style jean jacket.
- The ends of sleeves should extend a bit past the bend of the wrists but not past the creases on the thumbs.
- If you feel that denim feels constricting, (especially darker washes and raw denim), then look for jackets with stretchy fabric added to the fabric.
Denim jackets come in many colors, but blue is the classic and most versatile. Blue jackets are classified according to their “formality”, which is determined by the wash of their denim. A jean jacket is always casual. However, a dark-washed denim jacket will look a little more “dressy” while a lighter wash will appear the most casual. The best choice is the medium wash, which sits in the middle. It’s soft, versatile and classic.
What to wear with a denim jacket
Denim jackets can’t be dressed down or up to suit any dress code. Some fashion-forward sartorialists wear a denim jacket over a shirt, tie and waistcoat. However, the contrast between this formal outerwear and the casual underlayer is not a pleasing one.
However, denim jackets can be worn with almost any casual garment in your wardrobe. The combinations can be ideal or not, but we will outline the spectrum of possibilities below.
Below Bottom
This is the one rule that you have probably heard when it comes to wearing a jean coat: Never wear denim on top of denim. This combination is called a “Canadian Tuxedo,” after a 1950s incident when Bing Crosby, who was wearing all denim, was barred from a swanky Canadian Hotel. The Levi’s Company responded by creating an entirely denim tuxedo for him to rock.
Double denim is a faux-pas because it makes you look like you are wearing a strange pseudo suit. It’s not a rule to avoid this combination. It’s harder to pull off, but you can wear jeans with a denim coat, provided there is a lot of contrast. You can wear a lighter jacket with a darker pair of jeans or vice versa, rather than wearing a medium-wash jacket with medium-wash jeans. Denim jackets can be worn with jeans of any color, including black and charcoal.
You can break the rules if you dare and wear jeans and a jacket that are of similar color. I love it! I don’t mind if my “Canadian tuxedo” is wrong. I guess it’s just the rebel in me!
It’s better to avoid double denim if you aren’t sure you can pull it off or don’t care for the style. Here are some guidelines on how to dress your lower half when wearing a denim coat. The options are ranked in order of less-to-more ideal.
- Poor:
- Dress trousers (too high low/contrast).
- Jeans that are the same color as your jacket
- Alright:
- Jeans that are a different color from the jacket
- Joggers
- Best:
- Chinos/khakis (in brown, tan, olive, gray, etc.)
- Corduroys
Think casual when it comes to your footwear: leather/canvas/suede shoes, chukkas and so on.
On Top
While additional layers may be fun, they don’t add bulk to a denim coat. A thin base layer allows the jacket to hang freely and comfortably. Jean jackets lend themselves to an even more “spare”, simple look.
We’ve sorted your choices of underlayers from the unrecommended to the must-have:
- Poor:
- Button-up dress shirt (too formal).
- Workout shirts made of technical fabrics (too casual for denim jackets, and with a shiny finish that does not complement the matte ruggedness of the jacket)
- Chambray button downs (while technically chambray fabric is different from denim it looks similar enough to be considered “double denim”).
- Alright:
- Sweaters. Some thin, casual sweaters work well under a denim jacket. However, many look odd.
- Polos (a good pairing, although the preppy shirt clashes with the jackets’ more rugged and ready-to-wear vibe).
- Button-down shirts
- Best:
- T-shirts of all types, but a plain white tee in particular is a classic.
- Henleys with long- or short sleeves
- Hoodies (gives a “urban” feel)
- Flannel/plaid shirts
If you’re a biker, or intentionally going for that look, then you shouldn’t wear a white tee under your jacket with black jeans and black work boots. Wearing a white shirt under your jacket with black jeans and is not recommended, unless it’s a deliberate biker look. Let the jean coat be an easy addition to your casual clothing.
Denim jackets are a great addition for a man’s wardrobe. You may even want one. Then wear it all the time. Age only makes it look and feel better. Clothing only has as much authenticity as you use it.
